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Here's a supermacro shot of a bee I took with my Olympus E-510. I used a Sigma 105mm macrolens together with a Raynox closeup-filter. I believe the magnification ratio is around 2:1. It would have been a perfect shot if the light was better but it was a cloudy day so I had to use ISO 800 to compensate, which made the picture slightly noisy. I have tried to clean up the worst noise but I left some of it to maintain overall sharpness.
Here's a supermacro shot of a bee I took with my Olympus E-510. I used a Sigma 105mm macrolens together with a Raynox closeup-filter. I believe the magnification ratio is around 2:1. It would have been a perfect shot if the light was better but it was a cloudy day so I had to use ISO 800 to compensate, which made the picture slightly noisy. I have tried to clean up the worst noise but I left some of it to maintain overall sharpness.
That's certainly close!
I do wonder if the close-up lens on top of the macro is desirable? At that magnification the hairs on the bee ought to be more crisp, I feel.
Are you using the Olympus Studio 2.0 sample? I have had a brief look at it - it seems to be a bit light on features compared to the original version?
I do wonder if the close-up lens on top of the macro is desirable? At that magnification the hairs on the bee ought to be more crisp, I feel.
It's not a perfect setup but it does give added magnification without cropping. The DOF at this level of magnification is incredibly short and since I had very poor light to work with, I had to use a lower F-stop number than I would have preferred. With better light-conditions, lower ISO and more aperture, I think the sharpness would have come out a lot better. Remember, I had to denoise the picture to even make it useable which unfortunately means a lot of it's sharpness was lost there...
I think it's a nice picture nevertheless, mostly thanks to the bee itself...
Originally posted by Ian
Are you using the Olympus Studio 2.0 sample? I have had a brief look at it - it seems to be a bit light on features compared to the original version?
No, I haven't used any version of Olympus Studio so I can't comment on any of it's features. I use Bibble.
It's not a perfect setup but it does give added magnification without cropping. The DOF at this level of magnification is incredibly short and since I had very poor light to work with, I had to use a lower F-stop number than I would have preferred. With better light-conditions, lower ISO and more aperture, I think the sharpness would have come out a lot better. Remember, I had to denoise the picture to even make it useable which unfortunately means a lot of it's sharpness was lost there...
I think it's a nice picture nevertheless, mostly thanks to the bee itself...
No, I haven't used any version of Olympus Studio so I can't comment on any of it's features. I use Bibble.
Bibble is great if you need to reduce noise, but it does sacrifice detail in my experience.
Roll on E-510 support in Adobe Camera RAW!
Do you use the live view much - especially for macro work?
Do you use the live view much - especially for macro work?
It depends on the subject.. the mirror needs about 1 extra second to flip before the shutter takes the picture when the liveview is used, which can make you loose a critical shot if you're trying to capture a fast-moving insect or butterfly for example.. but I do use it for easier shots like flowers or as an aid to find the correct composition of a scene before I actually take the picture.
It depends on the subject.. the mirror needs about 1 extra second to flip before the shutter takes the picture when the liveview is used, which can make you loose a critical shot if you're trying to capture a fast-moving insect or butterfly for example.. but I do use it for easier shots like flowers or as an aid to find the correct composition of a scene before I actually take the picture.
Looking back at your bee picture again, I think you probably got the best you could in the circumstances, but maybe a ringflash would have been the solution? Do you use flash for your macro work?
Blimey! That is close!
I'd have to agree with Ian about the questioning of a closeup filter. I'd of thought that a 1:1 ratio lens would be enough for this kind of macro work? I don't know enough about macro lenses to be certain, though.
It's a lovely composition, and oddly for a Bee photo, it doesn't scare me. The subject appears more friendly than aggressive. I've always wondered what they are thinking when a big lens is pointed at them, maybe they see their reflection and think its another bee? Anyway i'm drifting.
Its a great photo, its a shame about the lack of clarity on the hairs etc. but hey, it's not bad for a dull day! I'd love to see some of your other macro work from good days, so i'll be checking out your gallery!
It's not a perfect setup but it does give added magnification without cropping. The DOF at this level of magnification is incredibly short and since I had very poor light to work with, I had to use a lower F-stop number than I would have preferred. With better light-conditions, lower ISO and more aperture, I think the sharpness would have come out a lot better. Remember, I had to denoise the picture to even make it useable which unfortunately means a lot of it's sharpness was lost there...
I think it's a nice picture nevertheless, mostly thanks to the bee itself...
No, I haven't used any version of Olympus Studio so I can't comment on any of it's features. I use Bibble.
The Sigma 105mm f/2.8 reproduces 1:1 (life size) at the sensor plane, at closest focus. The Four Thirds sensor size crops to roughly 25% of the area of a 35mm film 'full' frame, or about half the width or height. So if you equate a Four Thirds frame to a 35mm frame, you're getting a equivalent to 1:0.5 at closest focus!
My feeling is that the additional close up lens, although it will get you physically closer, will add a significant level of optical degradation - and I'd bet more than using the native lens and then cropping.
Looking back at your bee picture again, I think you probably got the best you could in the circumstances, but maybe a ringflash would have been the solution? Do you use flash for your macro work?
No, I don't own a proper flash yet! I've done most of my macro shots using daylight. But I'm planning on getting a decent flash soon. A ringflash would be ideal for this but it's unfortunately out of my budget. I'm keen on getting the Metz 58 AF-1 since it recently became available for Olympys cameras.
Originally posted by Ian
My feeling is that the additional close up lens, although it will get you physically closer, will add a significant level of optical degradation - and I'd bet more than using the native lens and then cropping.
Being closer means even less depth of field, too.
Yes, optical degradation is a fact when you use close up lenses.. but they are at least somewhat better than tele-converters. I prefer using a close up lens rather than cutting out 50% of the image.
The depth of field is quite tricky to catch when you shoot macro, at least in my experience... I use autofocusing for most of my shots because the camera usually is more accurate at pinpointing the focus than I am.
Yes, optical degradation is a fact when you use close up lenses.. but they are at least somewhat better than tele-converters. I prefer using a close up lens rather than cutting out 50% of the image.
The depth of field is quite tricky to catch when you shoot macro, at least in my experience... I use autofocusing for most of my shots because the camera usually is more accurate at pinpointing the focus than I am.
Sorry if you already know this - it might be of interest to others not so expert in macro work. Not sure if you meant 'extension tube' ? An Extension tube wouldn't compromise the optics (it has no lens of course), though it would reduce the brightness. A teleconverter can be used like an extension tube to improve macor magnification, but it both reduces brightness and compromises the optics as it incorporates its own lenses into the optical path.
May well of lost some sharpness but it's still a very good macro shot.
Thanks Olyrhc and Ian for an interesting to and fro
I reckon both extenders and closeup filters will result in quality loss, after all both are adding glass.
IMO An extension tube is the way to go with still subjects that allow time to use manual focus. Using the bare macro lens for other subjects and using the crop tool will give better quality results and still retain a good printing size.
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